Dean Street Townhouse

Pamela Mitford, the least well-known but no less fascinating of those six remarkable sisters, had a particular gift for remembering menus from luncheons and dinners that she had attended, even many years after the event. Almost every letter to any of her sisters (available in this fascinating book) includes at least some culinary reference. This was a source of great amusement to her siblings who, having little else to tease her about - Pamela having chosen a life rather more ordinary than they - would playfully mock her almost photographic recall of what had been consumed by whom on occasions that they could not even remember.

I envy such anamnestic ability; while I am passionate about food, and (I hope evidently) in writing about it, it's rare for me to actually remember what I've eaten at a particular meal for particularly long. The fact that even now, several days after dinner at Dean Street Townhouse, I can still remember not just everything I ate but everything my companion ate, is exceptional – which pretty much sums up my experience of this Soho newcomer.

Dean Street Townhouse - as well as the restaurant there's an affordable boutique hotel - occupies a large corner site which, if my memory serves me well, used to be a Pitcher & Piano. Entrance to the restaurant  is via a very discreet doorway, supervised by an improbably handsome young doorman who gives new arrivals a lightning-fast, almost imperceptible once-over just to ensure they're not unaware of the change of ownership and direction. It's a nice conceit; one's made to feel rather in the know for even being there, and that's before setting foot over the threshold.

Once in, the buzz of the room almost knocks you off your feet; it's not loud, or overbearing, there's just a very palpable air that this is a place for conversation and animation, not sotto voce plotting or culinary navel gazing. The welcome, from maitre d' Gina Glennon (ex-Scott's, J. Sheekey and Le Caprice) is effusive and sincere; here is a woman who knows how to make total strangers feel like old friends. 

One side of the large main room is dominated by an imposing dark wood bar, while the other side accommodates banks of red leather banquettes and about two dozen tables for twos and fours. There's a couple of booths at the back of the room for larger groups, and separated from the main room by heavy curtains is The Parlour, an altogether cosier space featuring rather racy wallpaper and comfy armchair seating. Adorning every wall is a fine selection of monochromatic modern art ("Is that a Mark Titchner?" I asked Gina as she led us to our table; "Oh yes!" she replied with evident pride) and the lighting is subtle and just right - as well as neo-Gothic chandeliers overhead, tall candles in Wee Willie Winkie-style brass holders adorn every table. It's altogether a very agreeable place to be.

What's also highly agreeable is the complete lack of pretension of the menu. The food is solidly, unapologetically British - not even modern British - with just a few concessions to American and European palates. Nothing needs translating or explaining, and although provenance is clearly important it's not gone into in excessive detail, so crab is identified as being from Dorset and the rib steak from Bannockburn, but without any tiresome attribution to a particular net, field, farmer or fisherman. It's the kind of food which one could, and most likely does, eat at home, but with the convenience of being cooked - superbly as it turns out - by someone else.

To start off, PV went for fried duck egg with wild mushrooms and I chose twice-baked haddock souffle. Both were as delicious and comforting as they sound; a slice of toasted brioche added sweetness to PV's rich, soft egg and bosky mushrooms, and my adeptly seasoned, light-as-parfait souffle came swathed in an indulgent chive beurre blanc.

Main courses were also expertly rendered. My pan-fried ray with capers and lemon was a butch, thick-cut slab of fish accompanied by just the right quantity of well-judged caper butter and PV's salt beef with caraway dumplings and pickle was a generous, colourful bowlful of thick tranches of tender meat, with carrots and new potatoes as well as the advertised dumplings and gherkins. We ordered a side dish of creamed spinach more out of interest than necessity; it was also very good, one of those rare examples of a side dish actually adding something more to a meal than bulk.

Though all the puddings sounded appealing - good old British favourites including apple pie and queen of puddings - from the moment we saw it on the menu we knew we had to have the sherry trifle for two. The brilliance of this dish lay in its being completely unbastardised, a huge traditional glass coupe filled with layers of fruit in jelly, real vanilla custard and an abundance of whipped cream, all topped with crumbled meringue - home-made I'm sure - and flaked almonds. Oh and sherry. Lots, and lots of sherry. Superb as it was we struggled to finish it; the kitchen at Dean Street Townhouse holds no truck with stingy portions.

From the fairly concise and ungreedily marked-up wine list, we chose a 2008 Roberto Sarotto Gavi di Gavi which provided enough dry apple fruit to complement my fish choices while being robust enough to tackle the richness of PV's duck egg and beef. The list is almost exclusively Old World with a strong bias towards France, although there's a handful of New World choices in the mid price range. What's delightful about the list is that it starts low - at just £15.25 for the cheapest white and £16.50 for red - and peaks at (and I use the next word  relatively) only £140 or so, with the climb from bottom to top coming in manageable steps. This means that, whatever your wine budget might be, you will get a far better bottle at Dean Street Townhouse for your money than you would at many another restaurant playing at the same level.

Service was, at all times, attentive, friendly and polished; drinks took at times a little too long to arrive (our dessert wine came only when we had all but finished the trifle) but that was the only, minor, hiccup. Importantly, every single member of staff we came into contact with seemed to be thoroughly enjoying themself, and determined to ensure that we should too. There are very few places that one can say that about.

Which, neatly, brings me back to my initial point and the point which will ensure that Dean Street Townhouse thrives: it is truly exceptional. You're treated like a VIP whether or not you're a celebrity or media mogul, of which there were several on the night we visited. You are served unintimidating, unpretentious, but excellent food and wine, and charged very fairly for it. You're served by staff who are polite, professional and who clearly love what they are doing and know exactly when to be at your table and when to leave you alone.

You have fun at Dean Street Townhouse - and believe me, everyone at every table was smiling. When you leave, it's with a sense that not only has your visit been greatly appreciated, but that you would be very welcome to stay the night - a note on the menu advises that rooms start at a bargain £95 - and that if you really must go, then everyone would like it very much if you were to come back soon. And come back soon I most certainly will; Dean Street Townhouse falls into the rare category of being a restaurant that I can't wait to return to. 

Pamela Mitford once mused that were she ever to write her memoirs, they would be all about food. Although the likelihood of anyone ever wishing to read (let alone publish) my memoirs is remote to say the least, that theoretical volume were I to write it would, too, contain a great deal about food. And there, in the chapter entitled 'Memorable Meals', would be at least a paragraph or two on Dean Street Townhouse. 

Dean Street Townhouse, 69-71 Dean Street, London W1D 3SE Tel: 020 7434 1775 http://www.deanstreettownhouse.com/

HIX, Soho

Regular readers - and there are literally ones of them - of this blog will know that I am a great admirer of uber-chef and fellow Dorset boy Mark Hix. I've eaten at most of the restaurants with which he has been associated over the years, including actually being cooked for by the man himself in the days when he could be found knife-wielding at The Ivy, and weekly devour his column in Saturday's Independent, often trying my hand - to mixed degrees of success - at his always innovative recipes. 

I treat as authoritative his articles on ingredients, farming, fishing, provenance and locality, and have learnt a great deal on each of these from him; it is no exaggeration to say that Mark Hix's cooking and writing have shaped the way I eat today, my food tastes, likes and dislikes. Years ago, when I threw up a Hix signature dish at Rivington Grill (through, naturally, no fault of the chef's own), it felt akin to blasphemy.

I'd been excited about the prospect of eating at HIX (block capitals seems to be the accepted rendering of the name) for ages, ever since noticing by chance, walking down Brewer Street, that the site of Gary Yau's short lived haute-Japanese Aaya had been reborn as part of the burgeoning Hix empire (there are another two restaurants bearing his name, one in London, one in Lyme Regis in Dorset, as well as a consultancy gig at Brown's Hotel). Alas for me, the opening up of HIX coincided with my opening up by a surgeon, and the dreary recuperation diet I was put on precluded any fancy-pants restauranting for a few weeks. 

I could only read, weep and salivate as reviewer after reviewer got in there first, almost all agreeing (with the notable exception of Metro's Marina O'Loughlin, who I greatly admire) that Mark had pulled off the unthinkable and opened a surefire success of a restaurant in the middle of The Worst Recession In Living Memory (TM). But, as one day surely shall the economy, I recovered, and when it came to deciding where to have a celebratory lunch there was only one choice. My glamorous friend Nina, over on business from Bermuda and no stranger to fine dining, was my lunch companion.

So that I can focus on all the good bits about HIX - and there are many - let me begin by getting a handful of really quite minor but collectively significant gripes out of the way. Firstly, booking a table at HIX was not an all-together painless experience. Three attempts to get through were aborted due to unacceptable times waiting for the call to be answered, and when I did get through I was spoken to, if not with disdain, then not with the degree of warmth which one might hope for from a person one has been kept waiting for the privilege of speaking to. It's also not nice to be told that your table - booked for 12.30 - will be needed back after two hours; I am unlikely to want to linger for two hours over lunch, but if I am, are you really expecting to be fully-booked at 2.30 on a Monday, Mark? Really? It just felt unnecessary and ground my gears. 

Then there's the menu. For the most part it's in plain enough English - 'Atlantic prawn cocktail', 'Devilled lamb's kidneys on toast' and so on - but there's also an awful lot that needs deciphering and I thought we'd done away with that when we all started calling creme brulee burnt cream. Serious foodies - and readers of Mark's Independent column - will be fluent in the language of crubeens, cod's tongues (which, nota bene, are not exactly the tongues of cod) and slip soles, but I suspect that many diners are not and may not care to have to ask the staff to have to explain quite so much of the menu to them. I don't for a second doubt that the delightful staff would take great pleasure in doing so, but it just seems a little bit cliquey, a little bit insular, a little cleverer than thou. 

Last of the niggles is that unlike almost all other restaurants playing at this level of the game, HIX lacked anyone discernibly in charge; several (lovely) ladies welcomed us at the door and waved us off, and there were a number of suited chaps of both sexes wandering, unsmiling I noted, around the dining room ostensibly overseeing things, but if there was a maitre(sse) d' on the premises I failed to spot him. Maybe it's a deliberate thing, part of the studied informality which typified the service, but personally I like at some point during my three courses to receive a fleeting visit from someone high up in the honcho stakes just to check that I am a happy chappy; a little bit of extra love over and above the waiter's customary 'Is everything OK?'-type enquiry.

Venting over, I can now unleash the praise,and the hitherto identified quibbles notwithstanding, HIX is really very good indeed. Really, seriously good. Even the front door is good, a Brobdingnagean slab of heavy dark wood which it took all my not-insubstantial weight to open; it's foreboding and inviting at the same time, hinting at decadence and maybe danger within. The interior's a hit too, a very New Yorky, mostly white, high-ceilinged space decorated sparsely but modishly with mobiles (not phones, though that would be fun, but the suspended variety) designed by Hix's big name artist pals.

Tables, bare wood with sturdy but comfortable leather seats, are generously spaced out around the L-shaped room and I honestly couldn't spot what I would class as a 'bad' table. Once seated, water (in fun pub counter whisky jugs) and bread - a whole, home-baked mini-loaf of it - are brought swiftly before, in another Big Apple-style gesture, the day's cuts of steak are paraded on a butcher's block at your tableside. As well as being a nice bit of salesmanship - the sight of the 1KG Porterhouse is truly mouth-watering - it's helpful to have the three cuts on offer explained, although I was a bit baffled by the surely oxymoronic 'fillet served on the bone'.

The menu, even with its scattering of obscurities, reads wonderfully; it's comfortingly similar to that at Rivington Grill - even the font is almost identical - and only slightly dearer, so the soups, salads and traiteur-type meat-treat starters are around the £8-£9 mark while mains are in the range of £14-£21 unless of course you're minded to have that Porterhouse steak at £65 for two. Contrary to what one might infer from the reverence afforded to beef, the menu is actually slightly fish-biased and this being a Hix restaurant the emphasis is on sustainability, with gurnard, silver mullet and haddock all making an appearance (although how Mark squares serving only the 'tongues' of cod, and not the rest, I'm not sure; nose-to-tailfin eating this ain't). 

Nina and I both started with soup, she the pumpkin with sage and chestnuts and game with soft poached egg for me. Both were very good, Nina's was full of flavour, brightly coloured and packed with fragrant sage, and mine was a heart-warming and filling, if slightly over-salted bowl of rich, creamy broth packed with shreds of partridge and tasty mallard.

To follow, Nina chose the beef flank, porter and oyster pie - OK yes, down the pub it would be called steak and ale pie but this is HIX, sweetie - a dark, rich stew of fibrous, tender meat in thick gravy under a golden, crackling crust topped with a solitary gratinated oyster. The lonely bivalve, whilst as bracingly fresh as being knocked off your feet by a morning wave, seemed somewhat surplus to requirements; the pie itself disappeared to approving noises from across the table.

I opted for the flat-iron steak (a thick cut from the shoulder, similar in texture to onglet) with baked bone marrow. This was the star dish of the meal, the tender steak chargrilled to black on the outside but still yielding and rare in the middle, and full of barbecue flavour. The accompanying bone marrow - one of my absolutely favourite things - was mashed up with herbs and seasoning and served piled back into a shin bone, split down the middle and hollowed out. It was a carnivore's delight, almost primal in conception but resolutely modern in delivery. A nice touch was its being presented with three mustards to choose from, English, wholegrain and - my favourite, Tewkesbury, somewhat like Dijon but cut with horseradish for extra bite. I loved it all. 

The only flat note food-wise was a side of chips, which were just, well, extremely ordinary chips. There simply wasn't room for dessert; portions at HIX are fairly huge and it's all too good to leave even a scrap of. Wanting to at least try something from the puddings list we ordered 'Julian Temperley's cider brandy & Venezuela black truffles', and a more intense whack of pure cocoa flavour has seldom passed my lips. Diners with room for more can choose from a very British selection including rice pudding, Bakewell tart and berry posset.

We drank modestly and well; we toasted our reunion and my return to health with a glass apiece of Joseph Perrier (Laurent's younger, cooler brother perhaps?) champagne, louchely served in a retro coupe, and accompanied our food with a 500ml carafe of a smooth, blackcurrant-heavy Barossa Valley Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon chosen from the excellent and reasonably priced list. France is most prevalent but fans of Spain, Italy and the New World won't be disappointed; light drinkers and those on a budget will also welcome the superb selection of wines available by the 175ml glass and carafe. 

Service throughout was generally good, the comfortable informality of the staff never tipping over into over-familiarity, but as the room filled up attentions did seem to divert slightly to other tables and we had to attract our waiter's attention in order to place our dessert order and request the bill. 

All in, the bill came to just over £50 a head which I think will work out as about the going rate here. Downstairs there's a very attractive bar area - all but empty in contrast to the buzzing restaurant but I would imagine it's a very different story by night - and had we had more time before or after lunch I would gladly have stopped in to sample some of the delights on the interestingly compiled cocktail list. There's a separate bar menu and I can easily see this becoming a very fashionable, club-like Soho staple.

HIX may be a new address on the rapidly lengthening list of Soho hot spots but there's nothing really new about it; I mean this to flatter, as HIX is a synthesis of all the very best bits of the restaurants through which Mark Hix has blazed his trail. HIX combines the mystique of The Ivy, the excellence of J. Sheekey and the fashionableness of Rivington Grill, while at the same time being unmistakeably all about Hix; at reception, in the bar and even on the menu you are reminded that the great man, as well as feeding you in his restaurant, can also sell you his books, salad dressings and souvenirs. 

It's a very well-executed enterprise and before long I can absolutely see it taking over from, or at least rivalling, The Ivy and Scott's for sheer cachet. Now that my digestion is fully functional again, and provided I can get through to book my two-hour slot at a table, I intend to revisit HIX as often as I can until the celebs and media barons take over and getting in here becomes as much of a challenge as at those, for now, more famous competitors.

HIX, 66-70 Brewer Street, London W1F 9UP Tel: 020 7292 3518 http://www.hixsoho.co.uk

The Clubhouse Shoreditch @ The East Room

As of March 2010 The East Room is closed for the foreseeable future due to a devastating fire. Fortunately no-one was hurt but my thoughts go out to the wonderful team there. I hope that their talents find a good home, and quickly - any hospitality venue would be lucky to have an 'East Roomer' on their staff.

As a general rule I don't think it's productive to review the food offerings at members' clubs; existing club members and anyone interested in joining aren't going to be (much) interested in one reviewer's opinion on what the grub's like, and anyone else is not likely to care enough to read about food of which they are unlikely to be able to partake. I have to make an exception however for the outstanding 'pop-up' space at Shoreditch's The East Room, because it's aimed squarely at, and is perfect for, an up-market Christmas party crowd and you, dear reader, might just have the task of organising such a do.

For those unfamiliar with it - and many will be, given its deliberately much lower profile than its flashy, brash competitor Shoreditch House - The East Room is a very elegant, unstuffy, innnovative members' club on Tabernacle Street, on the doorstep of, but not within, the media, creative and fashion hub of Shoreditch. It's part of a small but growing group of members' bars and clubs including Milk & Honey in London and New York, Soho's ace cocktail lounge The Player, and boutique hotel, restaurant and members' bar The Clubhouse in Chamonix. It's upon this latter that The Clubhouse Shoreditch is based, and it's a pretty amazing sight. What is usually a pleasant, well-shaded roof terrace (pictured) - quite the place to not be seen, unlike a certain other, better-known roof terrace up the road - has been magically transformed into a faithful recreation of an Alpine lodge, with wood-burning stoves, an open fire, comfy sofas, a (fairground) helicopter and tongue-and-groove walls. On entry, you're encouraged, though by no means obliged, to shed your shoes and swap them for cosy ski socks, and to take your pick from a selection of apres-ski clothing including scarves and gilets. While the heat of the fires makes the room rather too warm for the winter woolies to be kept on for long, it's a charming and fun touch.

The food on offer has been mainly devised to appeal to groups, as it's envisaged that the space will predominantly be used for parties during the three months of its scheduled existence. In typical East Room style however there's not a satay stick or mini-burger in sight, nor are you going to find traditional turkey 'n' trimmings. Instead, in perfect keeping with the chalet theme, groups can order vast vats of tartiflette (the ambrosial if coronary-inducing marriage of potatoes, cream, cheese, bacon and onions), cheese fondue (for 2-12 people), coq au vin for twenty, daube of beef for 12...the menu reads mouthwateringly and prices, if not valley low are certainly not Alpine high, coming in at about £15 a head for food only. Extras available include salads, starters and sharers, and for occasions when the space is being used as an overflow for the floors below or just by smaller groups, there are dishes suited to 1 or 2 people. From these, we sampled the fabulous three cheese fondue (£30), brought to the bubble in a capacious cauldron at your table and served with copious amounts of bread chunks, radishes, endives and Chantenay carrots; and the charcuterie board (£18), a generous assemblage of ham hock terrine, chicken rillettes, chicken liver parfait, saucisson, Parma ham (particularly good), pickles and bread.

Imagination has clearly gone into the drinks offering too. Grey Goose and Eristoff vodkas are the building blocks for a clever, seasonal cocktail list and also feature in exhibitionist party pleasers including a rehoboam of Grey Goose set in a block of ice at £600 and a vodka luge (price on application!) 88- and 54-pint beer kegs with self-service hand pumps are also available and sure to make any party (and many a party-goer, no doubt) swing. We thoroughly enjoyed, and I can recommend, the vin chaud, otherwise known as mulled wine but hey, this is Chamonix! Served, of course, in half pint tin mugs, the aroma alone bellows 'Christmas'.

The overall experience is, at risk of sounding wanky, really quite magical and a very great deal of thought has obviously gone into designing it. The dressing up, the smells, the decor, the food and the hospitality (provided by The East Room's terrific staff who have mastered the art of being as cool as, but not cooler than, thou, a rare thing indeed in this part of town) all combine to truly transport you to another place; stepping out onto the City Road afterwards gave me new empathy with the Pevensie children. If you're organising a party over the next couple of months - The Clubhouse will disappear, as quickly as it popped up, in February - and want to take your cohort somewhere genuinely fresh, fun and unique, then The Clubhouse Shoreditch surely has to top your list. If not, but you fancy giving it a try, then do try to bag an invitation from a member (thank you, sister, for mine!), or failing that, consider joining yourself; for (final unfavourable comparison with a certain other club, I promise) membership here is open to anyone willing to pay their dues, follow the house rules and 'not act like a wanker'. And that, as a general rule, is the kind of place which deserves to be this favourably reviewed.

The Clubhouse Shoreditch @ The East Room, 2a Tabernacle Street, London EC2A 4LU Tel: 07000 847876 http://www.thstrm.com